Corky's day off ultimately not worth repeating
Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 16 October, 2012 : - - Last week I touched upon how I am so very, very, extremely very happy that all the brats are back in school at this time of year. I also gave a short accounting of my first week at Huntington Beach High School when I was a freshman. Today I thought I would continue on with another little disaster story from that same time period. One of the really lucky things I had going for me growing up was that we lived right on the beach in Surfside Colony. And, at that time there was great surf there. This was before they started to fill in the beach with sand dredged in.
Of course, we lost a few homes each winter during the big high tides due to no beach, but the upside was that there was great surf. One extra perk to that was that I was never all that tempted to ditch school to go surfing. I could easily surf a solid hour or more before school each day and a couple hours after I got home, unless it was on my dreaded piano-lesson day.
But there was one time when the temptation was too great. It was one of those October days when the winds were howling offshore with Santa Ana conditions and there was a solid 6-foot south swell running. It was during our morning break, I think, that Denny Buell, Tom Leonardo and I decided to make a break for it and go surfing at the pier.
They used to station a teacher at the corner of the school during morning break and lunchtime to make sure nobody took off; it was a closed campus. We hung out behind a building until the bell rang. At that time, the teacher also headed back to class. As soon as he was out of sight, we bolted down Main Street as fast as we could run.
Retrieving boards and surfwear from somebody's house a couple of blocks up from the pier, we then paddled out into epic conditions without hardly anybody else in the water. I am not sure how we thought we were going to get away with this, but for some reason that was not part of our thinking at the time. It was total focus on great surf and perfect conditions with no crowd. We were in surf-hog heaven.
Until Mr. Brown, our feared vice principal – the same dude who had previously dragged me from the school auditorium by my ears while I was shooting a moon at Robert August while he was leading a flag salute – walked out on the pier and waved at us.
"Uh oh," one or all of us said. Mr. Brown yelled out, "How's the waves boys?" We all kinda looked at each other and gave him the thumbs-up sign. "That's good. I will see all three of you in my office first thing tomorrow morning." With that, he waved and walked away. Kinda put a dark vibe over the session, at least for a few minutes.
We got three days' suspension for that. For me, that meant three more days of catching epic conditions while everybody else was in school. I was very good at forging my dad's signature, and so my parents never found out. I just went to the bus stop each day and kept right on going to a pal's house where I had my board stashed. Came home right after the bus arrived, just like I had been in school all day.
It was beautiful. But I never ditched school again after that because I knew that it would probably never work like that again, and also I got plenty of waves and all the hot chicks were in school.
Source: Corky's Blog
Author: Corky Carroll / firstname.lastname@example.org
Tags: Surf Culture, Corky Carroll, Tom Curren
Corky's Blog - Surfersvillage