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Gmac's camp chimes in on what happened in Portugal

 90 feet? Nicole Macias thinks so © POLVO/Jorge Leal & Wilson Ribeiro




 

Big Wave Rulers

Nicole Macias on why Garrett's wave was 85 - 90 feet high...

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 19 March, 2012 : - - I strongly believe that everyone should find what they are passionate about and follow their dreams. Garrett is a living example of someone who has done just that. For the most part he marches to the beat of his own drum, listening to his heart and doing what he loves the best he can do it. He has no hidden agendas. His goal in life is being able to support him and his family by doing what he loves. Recently, he has been working on not taking anything personally even if it is a direct attack on him. He is doing a great job, there are challenging moments when he hears things from his peers, the peers that he supports and would do anything for.

I could care less what anyone in the surfing world thinks about Garrett's accomplishment, because I know the truth. The truth is Garrett wasn't even going to surf on this day, his peers urged him to grab the rope and it felt right so he did. I was on the cliff that the waves break along, if someone where to fall there it would be near impossible to retrieve them. I saw the set coming on the outside and radioed to the ski to get ready. The wave came right to Garrett and because of the canyon the wave jacked up for a couple seconds adding substantial feet to the face of the wave.

When Garrett made it back to the harbor everyone was congratulating him and telling him how big it was and through all of this the normally energetic and intense Garrett was rather subdued and quiet. This went on for a couple days and finally I asked what was going on. Simply, he said he didn't know how big it was and he felt uncomfortable with everyone saying how big they thought it was. I decided on my own to send it to Sean Collins, the most respected Billabong XXL judge and the go to man for anything ocean related, Sean requested a high res photo of the wave.

He did me the favor of getting out his digital ruler. He then emailed me stating that he estimated the wave to be 85- 90 ft. Still even after Sean's confirmation Garrett never claimed anything, all Garrett can be accused of is bringing surfing into the homes of hundreds of millions of people. His wave brought more exposure to surfing than any other surfing event or wave. It is my goal that the next time you are going to say something negative about Garrett you think about what you just read and if you still feel the same at least have the decency to say it to him personally.

www.praiadonorte.com.pt

 

 

 


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Author: Nicole Mascias


Tags: Garrett McNamara, Portugal, Big Wave, Praia do Norte, Nazaré


Big Wave Opinion: Surfersvillage


 

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