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Greg Long's psych, balls explored in new film

Greg Long, Cortes Bank 2008 © Al Mackinnon/Billabong XX

 

 

Film Updates

Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing with Greg Long launches

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 27 November, 2013 - Sine Qua Non provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world's most decorated big wave surfer, Greg Long. Long is currently nominated for National Geographic's Adventurer of the Year Award for 2013 after recovering from a near-drowning at Cortes Bank to win the Big Wave World Tour Championship.

The film presents the viewer with a first-hand account of the life-threatening pursuit of big waves as well a look at the horrific wipeouts involved, including one that nearly ended his life. Going deeper, Long admits his pursuit could be viewed as selfish, especially when surrounded by a very close-knit family that is concerned first and foremost about his safety.

The film's title, Sine Qua Non, is a Latin phrase, which, roughly translated, means, "Without which, [there is] nothing."

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Author: 
Zach Weisberg
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