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Mark Richards reflects on two classic photos

Mark Richards © Lance Trout & Dick Hoole

 

 

Surf History

Shots by Lance Trout and Dick Hoole capture classic MR

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 28 March, 2014 - Mark Richards was given his first pair of Quiksilver boardshorts in the early 1970s. Quiksilver’s founders Alan Green and John Law custom made Mark a pair of boardies and sent them to him – these were the days before MR was sponsored so he was stoked to receive a free pair of boardies he’d wear all year round.

Over 40 years later Mark is still stoked on surfing, shaping surfboards … and boardshorts. MR shares on his blog and instagram sick photos from back in the day where the wetsuits were a little brighter and the boardshorts were a little shorter.

Left: Photo Lance Trout.. Pipeline , 1978. The board is a round pin single fin, 7’4″,19″ wide & 27/8″ thick. I shaped it in Dick Brewers room at Chuns Reef on the North Shore. I first surfed Pipe in 1973 or 1974 & I’d never had an injury or really scary experience there until 1986. The day before the Pipe masters that year on a super low tide I took off on the last wave of a set ,way too late & got pitched with the lip. As I hit the water the wave exploded on me, & I remember thinking , “this isn’t going to be good”, just before I got driven head first into the bottom on an angle, hitting the reef on the side of my head above my ear. I hit so hard it felt like I’d been wacked by a baseball bat. Got to the surface with my head throbbing & seeing stars. I felt the side of my head to see if it was all still there, it was, total relief, but my hand was instantly covered in blood. I drove back to where I was staying at Sunset Beach to tell my wife I’d hurt myself. She freaked when she opened the door & I’m standing there covered in blood. She drove me straight to the hospital. I ended up spending the day in hospital with concussion, a few major egg size lumps on my head & not much skin left on my ear. To this day I know I’m very fortunate to still be here !!! I lucked out & hit flat reef, If I’d hit a pinnacle or a coral head I would have been royally fucked big time !!!

Right: Photo Dick Hoole.1976. Off The Wall , North Shore , Hawaii. I’m riding a wing pin single fin shaped by Reno Abellira. It’s 7’8″, 19″ wide, & 27/8″ thick. I used to get asked a lot how my style evolved & where it came from. or who influenced it…. It came from within me. I’ve always believed that a persons surfing style is an expression of who you are as a person. Everyone stands, walks, & talks differently & this is reflected in how you surf. I’ve always focused on turns & I just wanted to come off the bottom & hit the lip hard. The body mechanics & mannerisms just followed. When I was growing up if I admired someone’s surfing I always tried to be influenced by the manoeuvres they did or the way they approached a wave . But I always made sure I didn’t copy someone else’s body mannerisms.

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Quiksilver Press
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