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'Surfers Code' by Shaun Tomson talks of life, localism

 




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'Surfer's Code' by Shaun Tomson - Riding swells the right way

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 8 December, 2006 : - -  Over the last decade, I've spotted Shaun Tomson sitting astride his board at surf spots around Southern California. Although he's typically the most gifted surfer in the water, it's hard to tell; he quietly waits his turn in the lineup. He offers waves to others.


Only when Tomson launches onto a wave does this native of South Africa reveal the acrobatic brilliance that made him world champion in 1977. Now, in "Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life" (Gibbs Smith: 192 pp., $18.95), this pioneer who showed the world how to ride deep inside the barrels of Hawaii's most powerful waves turns to the biggest problem facing the swelling crowds: How can surfers all get along?


To the uninitiated, it seems ridiculous that humans would fight over waves. The oceans are vast. Coastlines stretch for miles. The unfortunate truth is that there are limited places where ocean swells conspire with the configuration of the seafloor to create clean, shapely waves that peel along the shore. These surf breaks bring a testosterone-amped competition over a scarce, fleeting resource. Tensions grow fiercer every year, fueling localism, obscenities and sometimes fisticuffs.


Read the full article by Kenneth Weiss at Los Angeles Times.com


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Source: Los Angeles Times.com

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