Lunasurf team makes last-minute gamble for famed lefthander
Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 12 September, 2013 : - - Sometimes to score some of the best waves of your life requires commitment, spontaneity and a total roll of the dice. Which is what Lunasurf ambassadors Hugues Oyarzabal and Ian Battrick did, travelling for two days at the drop of a hat, last minute, from the opposite side of the world to try their hand on a wave that offers some of the longest tubes in the world, breaking over sand and looking like cartoon perfection.
"Back at home in Jersey I was surfing waves most normal people wouldn’t even bother with – howling onshore, weak, small, busy, slop, and had been watching the swell down in Africa for a week. Finally, at 6pm two days before the swell was meant to happen, I cracked and rolled the dice. Found a last minute flight leaving first thing next morning, and high tailed it to Skeleton Bay for what was only ever showing on the chart as one good day."
To fully appreciate the Skeleton Bay experience you need to embrace it for what it is— in a land of extremes. Incredibly remote, frigid water, hostile desert environment, terrifically sharky: Skeleton Bay must be one of the best waves on earth, else, no one would go to all of the effort and take the risks required to surf there.
With the very real possibility you could score a 30 seconds plus barrel, or the wave of your life, grinding down a 1.8km long sand point, will drive most surfers to insanity or to jump on a plane. These variables don’t happen that often. For Skeleton Bay to come alive it needs a pretty specific swell, the tide needs to be just right, the wind needs to be fresh offshore and the swell needs to have a perfect direction.
The rip down the point is so ludicrous it is pointless trying to paddle against it. And for a wave that looks so perfect for such a long distance, as you watch minute long barrels rifle down the sandbar, it is deceptively difficult to ride.
As South African Pro Dan Redman has said before, “The drop is all-important at this wave. We’ve had some of the top surfers from South Africa go there and not make a takeoff for two days. And this can happen regularly.” Of course if you do manage to handle the drop, a wave of incomparable length, speed and tubetime awaits. By the time you have finished you’ll be about a kilometre down the windswept desert beach, ready for a walk back and aiming to start all over again.
Here is a look into what happened during one day of surfing and over 25km of walking at Skeleton Bay with Ian Battrick and Hugues Oyarzabal
Tags: Skeleton Bay, Lunasurf, Hugues Oyarzabal, Ian Battrick