|Introduction : -
These Surf Tips are presented courtesy of BiC Surfboards, and will be helpful to all beginer surfers, as well as those just starting to get the hang of things on a board.
When paddling, look behind to see how the wave is going to break. As soon as you feel the wave carrying the board fast enough so that you don´t have to paddle, stand up right away with your legs bent, with your body slighty forward. Keep your body compact and look toward the bottom of the wave and decide which way you want to turn.
During the takeoff you must decide where you want to turn once you have got to your feet. If the wave is slow and sluggish, turn right at the bottom of the wave to gain as much speed as possible. If it is fast and powerful, you won´t need to turn right at the bottom, but instead a little earlier.
To initiate your turn, pivot your shoulders in the direction you want to turn (towards the wave) while pressing on your back foot with a little more weight favoring the rail of the direction of your turn. A good bottom turn is all about timing.
If the wave looks like its is going to closeout in front of you it´s a good time for a floater. This involves you going over the lip and onto the top of the wave and hopefully catching up with a re-opening section of the wave, or other wise getting jacked by whitewater. The KEY to a successful floater is speed. If you aren´t going fast enough, you won´t make it over the wash.
As you finish your bottom turn, the breaking wave flattens out and the wave´s face is not slopped enough to go for a re-entry. A good option here is a cutback. A cutback is a wide turn on the flatter part of the wave, which will take you back to the breaking section of the wave. With lots of speed from the bottom turn, ride as high on the breaking wave as possible, then pivot your upper body throwing your shoulders and arms back towards the inside of the wave while adding progressive pressure to your back foot, driving the board on the inside rail.
Sometimes you need to slow down when in the middle of a breaking wave to avoid getting too far in front of it. The snap back is like a cutback but faster. First, you have to put pressure on your back foot, followed by the pivoting of your shoulders in the direction you want to snap back. The board will turn by itself as you turn your body. This turn is made more with the flat of the board than with it´s rail. If you go too far, the tail will slide.
The duck-dive allows you to pass underneath waves while paddling out. Avoiding the wave pushing you back to shore. The first few times you try these it will be difficult. Once you get the move down it comes in handy and is an essential part of surfing. Paddle toward the wave you want to duck dive. About seven feet from the approaching wave hold your board by its rails and push down on it with your arms as you would when taking off on a wave. This will sink the board as deep as possible into the water. As you do this bring one knee up under you, the board will remain under water. Once the wave has passed, you can transfer all your weight and pull up your arms. This will move the board to the surface.
As you finish your bottom turn look toward the waves peak which will break in front of you. When you are under the peak, push on your back foot and direct your shoulders toward the slope of the wave. Your board will naturally follow the directions you point your shoulders and you will ride up the face of the wave. As you move toward the top of the face, release the pressure on your back foot and move your forward, directing the board back down the wave.
For this one, do close to the same thing as the backside. Put weight on your back foot, direct your shoulders toward the face of the wave. The big difference between this move and the backside is that the impact of the wave will be hard on your balance. Just make sure you come down balanced and in control.
Once you get to the top of the wave, shift your weight to the front of the board and aim your shoulders down the face of the wave. Remember, the key is to be balanced and in control.
Re-published with the permission of BicSport.com.
Learn to Surf - Surfersvillage.