LOCALISM and Surf Rage destory STOKE faster than...
Culture: Localism & Surf Rage
Localism & Surf Rage destory Stoke faster than a howling onshore
Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 8 July, 2012 : - - I've been chasing waves for over 30 years and have settled into seeking out fun and uncrowded line ups. I'm not a big wave charger or an aerial junkie. Just overhead is usually big enough for me, and hollow enough to get covered but not if it means risking serious injury. In other words, I'd consider myself middle of the road in terms of both surfing ability and desire.
And what I love about surfing, aside from the waves, is the vibe associated with it...the stoke, the shared mindset, and something that should probably be appreciated more than it is these days. Stoke is sometimes being overtaken by an urge to get more waves, as if accumulation is more important than feeling. And this leads on to the one thing that really sticks in my craw about surfing: over the top localism and the surf rage that goes with it.
I can't think of any other activity that has the same level of post pissing, chest thumping, macho posturing as surfing. This is a black mark on us as surfers.
Localism and Surf Rage
Post pissing, chest thumping & macho posturing
is a black mark on us as surfers.
Derek Rielly believes there has been a paradigm shift in surfing culture, ‘from one fiercely anti-establishment and pro-drugs that regarded the line-up as an escape from the bullshit of the world to one that is increasingly aggressive, conservative and competition-driven yet, paradoxically, constantly working to attract more participants'.
Glen Hening has described aggressive surfers acting like ‘true believers fighting over who will take communion, pushing and shoving and cutting in line with an infantile "Me First! Me First!" attitude as we approach the altar where our religion is confirmed. And when we finally attain the holy moment and connect with the body and soul of our faith, what do we do? "Mine! Mine!" becomes our mantra'.
Macho aggression is archaic, ugly and unnecessary. Surf rage ruins the stoke of riding waves more quickly than a howling onshore, and the notion of localism seems ridiculous. Wanting to keep a choice break quiet is fair enough, but surely no one has more of a right to what is essentially a free and public resource than anyone else.
A few years back at a remote break south of Dunedin, Mat, Eric and I were scrambling along the coast through the dried seaweed, mud and sheep droppings, towards the distant break. Things were cranking, and we were amped to get amongst it. There were two guys in the line-up and as we neared they started drifting towards the inside, probably perturbed by the sight of more boards. As another set powered through ... read more
Take a breath. Respect each other. Respect the waves.
For more on Paul's work, check out his blog: www.paulherseywrites.com
Autgour: Paul Hersey
Tags: Surf Rage, Localism,