Corky talks about bravery and, uh, balls
Big waves the focus of Corky Carroll's latest blog
Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 20 March, 2013 : - - This week I want to talk about guts and glory. Bravery and balls. Nerves and gnarlyness. Hair and hairy. What's got into me you ask? Well it all sort of centers around this dude Garrett McNamara. Most of you know that not long ago he hit the worldwide press for having ridden what has been called a 100-foot wave off Portugal.
Who knew Portugal had 100-foot waves anyway? But that is beside the point. The point is that no matter how big that wave was, it was REALLY BIG. And the size of the big waves they are riding these days has expanded to mind-numbing proportions. Today's "big" was just something in our wildest imaginations back in the days when I was shaking in my Speedos every time I paddled out on what we called "big" days at Wiamea Bay or Makaha Point. Today's "big" is monstrous.
So there has been lots of talk and debate as to the size of that wave and the whole kit and caboodle of monster wave surfing. Then this dude McNamara goes on a talk show and says that this mythical monster wave didn't scare him nearly as much as the "Glacier Surfing" episode. For those of you who don't know about that little bit of really crazy stupidness, let me explain.
It seems that McNamara was involved in this adventure of sitting on a board next to a huge glacier somewhere in Alaska or the Arctic or somewhere freezing that has glaciers. The idea was to hang out until a big chunk of ice fell off the glacier and made a huge wave, catch it and ride it. Yeah cool. More like not cool, totally freezing.
This was nuts. How do you know if a certain-size chunk is gonna break off and make a 50-foot wave or one a hundred times that size is gonna break off and kill you? Get my drift, so to speak. Yes, I can see where that would be scarier than a mere 100-foot wave.
So I am driving up P.C.H. today with my 16-year-old son Tanner and he asks me "When are they gonna Asteroid surf?" Asteroid surf? Yeah, this is where you find out when the next asteroid is gonna hit, kinda like that one that nailed Russia recently, and if it is in the ocean you just hang out in that area and wait for the REALLY BIG ONE. Like a hundred atom bombs BIG. Now this is the kinda thinking that really separates the men from the sheep.
Source: Corky's Blog
Author: Corky Carroll
Tags: Surf Culture, Corky Carroll, Big Waves
Corky's Blog - Surfersvillage