Environment News :: Big Waves

Record sized waves forecast for West of Ireland this weekend

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 30 November, 2007 : - - Waves of up to 14 metres in height are being predicted for the west coast this weekend. They would be the highest experienced for a number of years. The Marine Institute and Met Éireann have issued a warning to all ships, fishing vessels and anyone close to the shoreline to take great care, particularly tomorrow afternoon.

Computer-generated wave forecasts, using information picked up on the Marine Weather Buoy Network, show that waves with a significant height of up to 14m, about 45 feet, could occur in the seas to the west of Ireland. Previously the biggest waves recorded by the Marine Institute's data buoys were at the M1 Buoy to the west of Galway Bay on 17 January 2005, waves of 13.4m, about 40 feet.

The Institute and Met Éireann say that similar conditions could occur this weekend if weather systems develop as predicted and create conditions potentially hazardous to all marine users, ships, fishing vessels and even anyone close to the shoreline. When a broad area of very low pressure sits in the Atlantic north of Ireland, as is expected to happen today and tomorrow, waves are able to build over a considerable distance.

More swell details at Swell Watch/Wetsand

So, How big can waves get in the West of Ireland ?

Below are some examples of what's there !

Big Wave at Loop Head near The Cliffs of Moher West of Ireland (click to enlarge)

Richie Fitzgerald towing-in at Mullaghmore Head, West of Ireland

TOWSURFERS READY TO RIDE THE BIGGEST SWELLS PREDICTED IN YEARS. 

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 30 November, 2007 : - - Massive waves are set to batter the western shores of the British and Irish Isles this weekend, and a small group of dedicated surfers are ready to take up the challenge of riding the biggest swells forecasted in recent years. 

Swell forecasters are predicting the arrival of powerful swells peaking Saturday afternoon of 38 feet (12.5m) high. There is an 18- second wave interval between the crest of successive waves, a daunting measure of the power behind these swells, generated by a 960 mb low-pressure system out in the Atlantic west of Ireland. 

Once the swell comes out of deep water off Mullagmore Head, Donegal Bay, onto a shallow reef shelf, the waves can double in size as the wave crest is forced upwards by the changing seafloor contours, making waves heights greater then 55ft faces likely for the surfers. 

The four surfers who are looking forward to the oceanic equivalent of summiting Mount Everest are Duncan Scott (Newquay, UK), Alistair Mennie (Portrush, IE), Gabe Davies (Newcastle, UK) and Ritchie Fitzgerald (Bundoran, IE.) 

Aileens, Ireland, September 2006 : photos Mickey Smith/Carve O'Neill H3O Project

Working in teams (Mennie with Scott, Davies with Fitzgerald), the surfers will utilise jetskis to provide them with the initial momentum to slingshot them onto the giant unbroken swells. Waves of such magnitude and power move too fast to be caught by traditional human paddling-power alone.  

Paul O’Kane (Easkey), the towsurfing co-ordinator for the Irish Surfing Association stated ‘This is what we towsurfers wait for.  This is a huge swell that comes along every five or six years.’ 

Scott, Mennie and a group of Cornish and Irish surfers were involved in a ground-breaking session in October 2006 at a feared surfspot ‘Aileens’, under the Cliffs of Moher (Lahinch, Co Clare), where wave buoy readings of 27 feet with a 17 second interval were recorded that day. This incoming swell at 38 feet (12.5m) may well dwarf the waves ridden that day, which were to date the biggest recorded waves ridden in the British Isles. 

Duncan Scott, chairman of the British Towsurfing Association, and acting chair of the British Surfing Association, stated ‘The swell forecast looks the most promising many of us have ever seen in the British Isles. All of the surfers involved are professional, experienced waterman with many years heavy water experience. We train regularly for fitness, and in using the jetskis effectively for safety and rescue purposes. We have the utmost respect for the power of the ocean, and look forward to the challenge, camaraderie and ‘stoke’ of riding some huge, challenging waves together, and coming home safely afterwards.’ 

Big tube at The Cliffs of Moher West Ireland : photo Shannon Development/Lahinche Surf School

Portush’s Alistair Mennie, one of the pioneering towsurfers on the Irish big-wave scene commented, ‘In the past I have travelled to famous big-wave spots like the island of Madeira, and Mavericks (Half Moon Bay, N.California) looking for big waves to surf. Through exploration of our own coastlines in recent years, I have realised that there are some world-class big-wave spots in my own backyard. Now, the most respected Hawaiian, Californian and South African big-wave surfers are coming over to Ireland to tap into our waves. Surf spots like Aileens and Mullagmore Head are putting Ireland firmly on the global big-wave map.’   

The surfers are expected to head out at first light at Mullagmore Head, Donegal Bay, tomorrow Saturday 1 December, returning to shore around 1 pm.

Rhona Gardiner/ExcessEnergy Communications 

 
Aileens, Ireland, September 2006 : photos Mickey Smith/Carve O'Neill H3O Project

Check the weather at www.surforecasts.com

Irish Surfing Association notice:

With this forecast in mind the Irish Surfing Association would like to take this opportunity to reinforce our “Safe Surfing” guidelines. Surfing is an adventure sport with an inherent element of risk. The risk is increased during winter months as conditions become more extreme but it can be reduced if surfers adhere to basic safety. 

Search and Rescue services are being called out to surfers more often than ever before. The Irish Surfing Association would request every surfer to unconditionally respect our rescue services. Even the most experienced surfer may at some time require the assistance of the Irish Coast Guard. Should you see a surfer in difficulty in the water DON’T DELAY phone 112 or 999 and ask for the Coast Guard.   

Safe Surfing Guidelines

Never surf alone.
Always let somebody on land know where you have gone and when you will return. 
Only surf if you can swim.
Do not go surfing as dusk is approaching.
Never go surfing if you have been drinking alcohol. 
Check the weather and tides before you paddle out.
Learn to observe conditions so you can identify hazards.
Surf waves suitable to your ability.
If you are a novice take some surfing lessons.
If a break is unfamiliar to you get advice from local surfers before getting in.
Check that your equipment, particularly your leash, is in good order.
Remember it is easier to spot a brightly coloured surfboard or wetsuit at sea.
When you wipe out do not come to the surface too quickly
Allow your board time to land and come to the surface with your hands over your head.
When paddling out always check behind you before abandoning your board.
Never “drop in” on another surfer. The surfer nearest to peak has priority.
If you do find yourself in difficulty stay calm and stay with your board.
If you get caught in a rip do not try to paddle against the flow, paddle across it.
If you see another surfer in difficulty do not delay, phone 112 or 999 and ask for the Coast Guard.
Always respect the Coast Guard.

www.isasurf.ie
 

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Source: rte.ie

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