Paul Morgan : photo Mickey Smith/Surfing Life
Big Wave News
Paul Morgan Scores Crazy Cavern and Cover
Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 6 August, 2009 : - - 'That is the heaviest wave ridden in Oz this year so far, hands down!' When renowned charger, Justen Jughead Allport has this to say about south coast NSW surfer Paul Morgan’s WA beast, be assured we’re dealing with a very serious slab of Indian Ocean.
Just two days after Sydneysider Mark Mathews was whipped into what many are claiming is the biggest barrel ever ridden in Australian waters at a reef not too far away, Paul Morgan and Englishmen Mickey and Fergal Smith tackled the notoriously hollow and shifty spot on a bigger, uglier and downright scarier day.
“The swell was a little bit too big for this wave. There were a lot of crazy, huge barrels like the one I got but they were closing out … there was a lot of current that day and a big, lumpy swell,” said Paul Morgan of the conditions that created this below-sea-level monster. “It was sucking out so much, it was like nothing I’ve ever felt before, there was so much water draining off the reef. There’s so much water in the wave.”
After scoring the biggest barrel of his life, photographer Mickey Smith’s shot of Paul now graces the cover of ASL’s Issue 252 and will make for an impressive and genuine contender in the Oakley Surfing Life Big Wave Awards.
With two contenders being ridden in the space of three days, and a dedicated crew of local and international chargers scouring Australian and New Zealand waters for the biggest and ugliest waves they can find, the platform is set for another amazing year of competition in the Oakley Surfing Life Big Wave Awards.
The images do most of the talking, but we’ll let a man most qualified to comment on this have the last words – Jughead, “I just don’t think people realize what Morgs has done. He’s making history there, pushing the limits way beyond!”
We look forward to seeing where the limits are pushed to next.
Check out Australia’s Surfing Life Issue 252 on the stands now for the full sequence and stay tuned to surfinglife.com.au/bigwaveawards for more mind-blowing big wave craziness.
About Australia’s Surfing Life: From humble back-yard beginnings in 1985, Australia’s Surfing Life (ASL) has grown into Australia’s biggest selling and most popular surf magazine now boasting eight media channels which connect ASL daily with Australian surfers of all ages and abilities. From sponsorship of surf schools and grass-root events, through to World Tour event media partnerships, high quality surf films and a mobile phone/widget breaking news service ASL is breaking new ground in surf media.
www.surfinglife.com.au www.morrisonmedia.com.au
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Ryan Jones
Magazine - Surfersvillage
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