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Bethany blogs about boat trip & bashed bicep

Tyler Wright, Bethany Hamilton, Alana Blanchard & Pauline Ado © Rip Curl


Bethany Blogs

Bethany goes on epic Indo boat trip, gets hurt...

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 1 July, 2011 : - - After almost a month in Europe with not much surf, I was more than ready for a surf trip in tropical weather and warm water; plus surfing in a swim suit rather than a wetsuit! I made my way to Indonesia for a 12 day boat trip in the Mentawai. The Mentawai Islands are a chain of about seventy islands and islets off the western coast of Sumatra in Indonesia. Siberut is the largest of the islands.
On the trip with me was Alana Blanchard, whom y'all know about, one of my best friends since Ii was 7. Tyler Wright, a young and very talented pro from Australia who I've become good friends with over traveling the last few years, is a really cool fun girl. And Pauline Ado, my dear french friend whom I stayed with when I was in France. I surfed the World Junior Championship final with her in in 2009 and she ended up winning our heat. She is very motivated competitor and is really fun to be around!

So, with Rip Curl, we got on the boat, excited to Search for some fun surf! Every day we got really fun surf. It felt good to just surf with out the pressure of competition and just have fun with the girls!
My highlight surf sessions were... First, a heavy left that was barreling - not perfect, but still fun. It was at that wave that I broke two boards within one hour, it was worth it though(: Alana was sick that day. Almost every time I go out on the boat one of us gets sick. Next, we got a really rippable left. It started off not so good but it got better as the day progressed. I felt really strong and was full of stoke! Then, we tackled a really fun right which was very amusing.


Bethany on board in the Mentawai © Rip Curl

It was also very machine, so we got a ton of waves and could really enjoy our surfing. Speaking of amusing Tyler took out our floaty blow up "caterpiller" and got a few fun waves. It was really funny! When we weren't surfing we would dance around the boat, bug the chief for lunch or dinner, read, watch The Office, stretch or whatever we came come up with. Oh, and every morning we would wake up to a beautiful platter of fruit! Yummy!

Nearing the end of the trip is when I got hurt. We pulled up to a really good barreling left, but it had morning sickness at the time. So we cruised the area, hoping it would get better. Sure enough it got GOOD! We went out and had had two hours of fun surf. Then all the girls went in and I stayed out. I was getting some fun barrels. Then I took off a little late on a set, tried to tuck under the lip and pull in, but I was too late. So when the lip broke, as my friends like to say, I got "catapulted" by the lip. haha!

Then I hit my arm on my fin and got pounded! I came up and the jet ski got me. I was scared because we were a 15+ hour boat ride from the mainland. I was bleeding a lot. I wasn't sure how bad it was, but my arm was numb; so I was curious. Then our surf guide Albert stitched me right up - ten stitches. I'm just happy it wasn't worse. I'm healing well.

The day I got hurt I tried to eat dinner but passed out sitting at the dinner table. It was really funny cause Albert was talking to me about taking antibiotics (by the way, I detest taking them). As soon as he metioned antibiotics, I was out. So I just focused on resting and healing after that!
Overall, it was a great trip and a great month. I have another busy month coming up, but I'm looking forward to it! I hope you all are doing well and enjoying what matters most to you in life(: Love, Bethany Jeremiah 5:20-23 p.s. Rip Curl made a new bikini called The Mirage. It's my favorite suit they have ever made. It's cute and great for surfing(:

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Bethany Hamilton

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