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Heavy water - surfing West Australia's wild, wild waves

 

 




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Heavy Water: She Surfs Western Australia's Wild, Wild Waves & Writes About it

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 14 June, 2006 : - - From leviathan waves on the limestone coast to pristine beaches and uncrowded surf breaks, autumn and winter are the prime times to enjoy surfing Western Australia's wild south coast. It strikes me as I am engulfed by a wave that seems at least the height of Mt Kosciuszko that, until surfing Yallingup, I always thought a slab was a description for a quantity of beer.

But surfing this reef break 250km south of Perth, I realise it could also refer to a mass of water that makes the heavy waves I've encountered on Australia's east coast – Crescent Head, Gunnamatta or Bells Beach – seem like mere puddles creeping on to the sand. 


A few seconds earlier, I jumped up, leaned left and dug in my surfboard's rail. Suddenly I am appalled by its height; what looked like a nice sloping face is now a steep and sucky road to hell. Heart in mouth, I desperately manoeuvre my way around some rocks that have appeared out of nowhere.


Too late, I'm pitched over the wave face into the abyss as my feet slither off the deck. Eyes shut tight, I take the brace position of arms wrapped around head, bent knees and pray I avoid hitting my board on the way down. Wham. Landing on the reef I'm relieved it's covered in soft, slimy seaweed and my wetsuit prevents any serious bruising.


I figure any wave you walk away from here is a good one and, wiping sand from my eyes and replacing my earplugs, I slowly paddle out the back, watching ecstatic surfers casually performing cutbacks, hanging five and, in one case, even 10....


Read the full article by Alison Aprhys at The Australian


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Source: The Australian


Surf Stories - Surfersvillage

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